Nebaj

We drove to Nebaj on Monday from Antigua - a ridiculously harrowing drive up and down and around the mountains. Not sure of the altitude here but itś definitely higher - maybe 8000? The views from our bus were really amazing though so the constant hairpin turns were worth it!

We split up into four groups of nine people each, so for the rest of the time here (minus a regroup in the middle and a conclusion at the end) we¨re only with a small group.

Nebaj has a really really interesting history and culture...it is in the Ixil region and has a pretty distinct food and dress from the other parts of the Western Highlands. ALmost everyone speaks Ixil, a Mayan language, and Spanish is only a 2nd language. During the civil war inthe 80s most of the area was wiped out, but you can tell that everyone here is still really proud of their Ixil culture.

Im living with a new homestay family for the week that Im here - this time there are 2 little boys (who dont really speak to me that much, oh well), and one mother (who is actually only 24 or 25 I forget which). The dad works in a far away city and comes home on weekends. I think I like my family back in Antigua better, but this house is basically a mansion compared to Antigua. It is all indoors, to start, real roofs, and I actually have my own bathroom and shower and sink. None of which work, actually, but just the fact that they exist is good enough ... haha. Also, the bed is essentially some plywood covered with sheets (although there are somehow lumps in it...), which is by far less comfy than my bed in Antigua. But oh well, you win some you lose some....

I really like Nebaj so far. Itś very authentic and definitely more rustic than the Spanish-inspired Antigua. There are really no tourists here (well some, we met a girl who is living in southern Guatemala for a year making a documentary, does she count as a tourist?) and certainly no English speakers except for us. I like the vibe here, its just very real.

PS - this picture is from the top of our hostel the first night looking over one part of the city - Soluciones Comunitarias owns a restaurant/hostel/guide service here, and we use those places all the time.